Following watch trends and monitoring investment propositions on the watch market is one thing. Understanding watch jargon is another. In this Watch Slang Wednesday edition, we’re looking at the term “neo-vintage” watch and what it really means.
What is a Neo-Vintage Watch?
Gone are the days when we simply used the term “vintage” for old and “Modern” for new. Now we have a term that bridges the gap between both, and it signifies “New Vintage”. Confused? Read on...
A vintage watch may have a worn-looking case that has acquired a patina over time. Maybe the lume on the hands has discoloured, and the bezel has faded. Surprisingly, all of these elements are considered a thing of beauty to a vintage watch collector. They add detail and character to a timepiece. On the other hand, we have modern horological works of art that use pioneering materials developed from cutting-edge technology. Take, for example, a Rolex watch that features a Cerachrom bezel insert or Panerai’s Ti-Ceramitech material used in the Submersible Luna Rossa. But what do we call a watch that sits in between? Answer: a neo-vintage watch.
Neo-vintage watches appeal to enthusiasts who may have hit a fork in the road when deciding between a modern tool or a vintage classic. It’s difficult to pinpoint the window of time by which a vintage watch suddenly becomes a neo-vintage watch. More to the point, that variable will change eventually when those watches we still consider relatively young become old. Thus, the cycle continues. For ease, we can consider the watches that came after the Quartz Crisis neo-vintage watches. It’s those that are perhaps no older than 40 years and no younger than 10.
Examples of Neo-Vintage Watches
Neo-vintage watches combine modern and vintage influences in terms of materials, manufacturing processes and aesthetics. An example could be the Patek Philippe Aquanaut watches that feature the old-style tritium on the hands and hour markers but have a sapphire crystal front and case back. At some point along the way, a watch evolves by taking some of the old elements of its design and adding something new. The neo-vintage outcome is this sweet spot between the ever-desirable patina of the ageing lume and the reliability of more modern components and materials.
The Rolex GMT-Master II, Pepsi 126710BLRO is another example of a neo-vintage watch since it has only been around since 2001 and has become one of the most popular collectables of all time. That’s because it offers slimmer dimensions than those that followed – namely, the Super Case models with their fatter lugs and bezels. Collectors love the original aluminium bezel element of the GMT-Master, which is one reason why the reference 126710BLRO does so well. It keeps the aluminium bezel insert but features lustrous white gold markers and sapphire glass. Other examples include some Rolex Daytona models like the reference116520, which keeps the pre-cerachrom bezel and steel case but features a modern in-house movement.
Final Thoughts on the Neo Vintage Watch
While some vintage watches offer romance, charismatic patina and strong design ideals, they can become burdensome to those looking to avoid primitive technology and the difficulty of sourcing components for servicing. That said, some will always prefer the authentic, raw, emotive look and feel of a vintage watch, just like others would only ever consider adding modern tools to their collection. Which do you prefer? Send us an email here at Charles Martin, and let us know what you’re looking for next.